Translation of the ‘l’Amateur de Bordeaux’ Article
Three paradises on earth,
heaven can wait !
For a long time they have
supplied the large houses, but now the Tesseron’s family collection
is available to consumers. Let us take you on a journey on a little
cloud.
Chateauneuf-sur-Charente lies
on a little country road between Cognac and Angoulême. The dark
rainy winter sky is a great contrast with the warm reflections in
the silent stills. The "pot" stills in the House of Tesseron are
resting. In the chais, the vapours patiently await the angels liquid
feast from the casks along the road to infinity. The angels know
this place well : Abel Tesseron was founded in 1905. Abel Tesseron’s
Father was already a Cognac producer.
For more than a century he had
supplied the great Cognac house such as Delamain, Hine, Rémy Martin,
Hennessy, Martell and Courvoisier with cognacs for their blends.
Abel’s son Guy was born in this charming Charentais house and in
turn his son Alfred who now runs this family company. Alfred is also
responsible for Château Pontet-Canet, the family’s Pauillac wine
property, a fifth growth, Grand Cru Classé wine. The perfume of
Cognac, runs in Alfred’s blood and he has inherited the great art of
recognizing and blending great cognacs from his ancestors.
The wine destined to become
"eau de vie", and ultimately Cognac may only be distilled, by law,
from the harvest which is usually between mid September and mid
October to 31st March each year. The official ageing to the "eau de
vie" to become Cognac begins in the spring the following year which
is counted as year 0. Then the spring of the following year becomes
year 1.
Divine Emotion
Powerful events follow. These
young "eau de vie" are then put in cask on gently and quietly left
to mature. This is a very slow and gradual process. It is only after
10 years that these young Cognacs begin to show traces of maturity.
When they are under 10 years it is very difficult to identify their
age.
The only legal proof of a
vintage of a Cognac is the government seal on the cask. As seal that
cannot be broken it the Cognac is ready for bottling. Alfred
Tesseron has followed this practice since 1998, on special "hots" or
collections of casks, containing young "eau de vie" that he believes
are of exceptional quality and ageing potential. These new "eau de
vie" are babies, they will develop their personality and character
through childhood and adolescence. They are the vintage cognacs of
the future.
The Tesseron family have old
accounts, invoices and ledgers which record the production, maturing
and sale of their cognacs dating back to the early 19th century.
However these are not considered legal proof of their cognacs age.
For many years the large
houses have known that the Grande and Petite Champagne areas within
the cognac region produce the most elegant cognacs. Alfred Tesseron
is a perfectionist and has inherited the knowledge and experience of
his family. He had left this family’s treasured stocks of cognac,
amassed by previous generations quietly sleeping until 2000. In 2000
he decided to open the gates of paradise. More precisely the
paradise of his cellars. In these cool damp cellars, known as
"paradis" in the cognac region ancient "demijohns" of Tesseron
Cognac lay slumbering. The Tesseron family have three "paradis" not
just one, a rare phenomena indeed. These special "thick" glass
bottles, known as "demijohns" are wrapt in protective clothing of
cork or woven jutes. This protects their treasured contents from
movement, vibration and changes in temperature.
One trembles with excitement,
anticipation and emotion seeing the labels on these ancient flass "bottles"
1923, 1864… even 1825. They have been labelled and numbered with
vintages by generations of the Tesseron family, but they are
officially recognised as vintages by the authorities and that is the
problem.
Family Treasure
It is for this reason that the
Tesseron Cognacs are not labelled with vintages but with a Lot
number 76, 53, 29. Why these choices ? 76 for youthfulness, 53
because it is my age and 29 because it is a great treasure in the
reserves of the Tesseron family and a legendary year in Grande
Champagne. There is a fourth Cognac, without a number, a Petite
Champagne, Saint Surin. This is small estate, owned by the Tesseron
family a few miles from Châteauneuf. In the vineyards there are 2
hectares of the Folle Blanche grape variety, amongst the 12 hectares
of Ugni Blanc, a very rare phenomena today. The Folle Blanche gives
a lighter, brighter style of "eau de vie" perfumed and floral in
character.
Lot 90 is study, in response
to market demand for a young cognac. And perhaps one day just for
pleasure there may be a Borderie…. The Tesserons continue to supply
the big houses with cognac.
Alfred himself says that his
cognacs in their elegant orange boxes fill a "niche" which exists in
high end restaurants and special wine shops and wine merchants. They
already have some distribution in France in outlets such as "Badie"
in Bordeaux and Repaire de Bacchus in Paris, so they are beginning
to achieve their objectives.
They are appreciated by the
Scots and the English too. Alfred says, his greatest objective is
that is cognacs give pleasure to those who taste and drink them.
Lot 76 has peaty notes, 53
with aromas of raisins and spices such as cloves and ? and the
revered 29 with hints of chocolate and coffee.
Alfred loves his "children" and does not want
to be separated from them. He likes to nurture them a characteristic
he inherited from his father. But, he has now decided to share them
with a few special friends around the world, so why not sample a
drop of paradise.